I was driving the boyfriend's 2001 Jetta when it threw a "Check Engine" code for the better part of a couple of days. Then it started idling rough at stops. It lost pretty much all power upon trying to drive off, or when downshifting coming to a stop. Two new warning lights came on: the ECS and a funky triangle with an arrow encircling it. Then it would die. If I waited and fiddled with the key on and off, or drove backwards a little it would behave again, all warning lights but the check engine would go away. Yeah!Short lived triumph. A few miles later down the road it started acting up all over again. I pulled to the side of the road and gave it a good talking to after the third episode in a row ...why did the car hate me so much? But that didn't help. Called the BF to come see what his car was up to. I was using a locksmith-made non-factory key when driving it. Since I had some time to read the owner's manual while waiting, came across the section explaining the warning lights. It almost seemed to point to the fact the key I was using was not being recognized by the on-board computer and was placing the car in limp mode. Interesting. Like trying to drive away in a Police Bait Car.I knew this wasn't a Bait Car...so had to be the key either lost programming or the computer just didn't like it. BF arrives and it started right up with his factory key. No funky messages, just the check engine light. Golden. Next day he is driving it with his key, pulls over to talk on his cell phone and it threw all the codes again and went into limp mode while sitting at idle.Crap. He's got an OBD scanner, so checked out what the car was coding. Turns out to be the TPS. Which is part of the accelerator pedal. I feel old. When did those get located in the gas pedal? Drive-by-Wire. Okay. Must be just a little module. No, gotta get the entire pedal assembly. WHAT??Well, good news, they are readily available and Amazon has the cheapest price. WAY CHEAPEST PRICE. Got it in a couple of days. I got the honor of the replacement. It was relatively easy. Took longer to take down the panel under the dash than to do the pedal. Recommend you remove the 3 nuts holding it to the firewall before unlatching the connector. You can see how to undo the connector better. The new pedal required me to use a different lower mounting stud, but everything lined up and fit perfectly. Looks like the OEM pedal, no one is the wiser.